Mandarin Collar Coat
Slideshow by CrimsonBruin
This slideshow is made up of patterns I created to make my mandarin collar coat.
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Mandarin Collar Coat Sketch
The coat was an assignment for a class at the MassArt. This picture is of the sketch I drew. Note the princess seams from the armhole. There are side panels made from the princess seams and no side seams. The idea was to have the front closure meet and not overlap. I also liked the idea of having stitching around the collar and down the front.
Photo by CrimsonBruin
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Bodice and Skirt Slopers
Our instructor allowed us to trace slopers to start off. From these slopers, you can make any top, skirt, dress, or coat! The slopers, drawn on oak tag, were designed to fit the dressforms at school.
Photo by CrimsonBruin
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Front and Back Torso
I created front and back torso patterns from the bodice and skirt slopers. Dress and jacket patterns start from the torso sloper.
Photo by CrimsonBruin
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Front and Back Jacket
I created the jacket patterns from the torso slopers. I added seam allowances to the sides and shoulders.
Photo by CrimsonBruin
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Front Back and Sides
To create the side panels, I had to cut my precious jacket patterns along the princess seams!
Photo by CrimsonBruin
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Side Panels
The bottom pattern was made from the two pieces. I retraced them and made the single piece on the top. The top pattern was the one I used. These pieces were traced onto pattern paper provided by MassArt. I liked copying my patterns onto oaktag, but at this point, I couldn't bare to make this pattern again!
Photo by CrimsonBruin
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Front without Dart
I started sewing the coat and realized I didn't like the dart, so I made a new piece without the dart. It's the white piece.
Photo by CrimsonBruin
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Sleeve and Facings
These are other pattern pieces I made. The largest piece is the sleeve, which I enlarged from the sleeve sloper. The pieces to the left are the mandarin collar, under collar, and the back facing. The long pieces is the front facing.
Photo by CrimsonBruin
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Coat Front
This is the front of the finished coat (in muslin)! It came out pretty much how I'd envisioned it. The hem is not yet done. Making a hem on a lined jacket is not so easy.
Photo by CrimsonBruin
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Coat Closure
It took me awhile to figure out how I was going to get the front closure to work. I finally found these cool fasteners (and the lining) at Winmill Fabrics in Boston.
Photo by CrimsonBruin
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Coat Back
The back of the coat. Not the armhole princess seams here, too.
Photo by CrimsonBruin